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Parker County
Master Gardener Association
Garden Tips - January
General yard:
Annual soil tests are a great way to monitor nutrient accumulations in your
landscape. Have the soil test done and follow the recommended guidelines.
Make flower and vegetable garden plans now before the rush of spring
planting. Prepare beds and garden area for spring planting. Apply mulch,
compost or shredded tree leaves to moderate soil temperature fluctuations.
Now is an excellent time to transplant mature or established trees and
shrubs while they are dormant. Root stimulator should be applied when
planting new trees or shrubs and be applied every month for the first year.
When buying plants, the biggest is not always the best, especially when
dealing with bare-root plants. Medium to small size trees (4 to 6 feet) are
usually faster to become established and more effective in the landscape
than the large sizes.
Be on the lookout for scale insects on camellias, euonymus, hollies,
photinia, fruit and shade trees.
Water foliage plants as well as other containerized plants only when needed
and not by the calendar.
Lawn:
During a warm spell use a broad-leafed weed killer as needed to eliminate
clover, chickweed, henbit, dandelions and other non-grassy weeds.
Flowers:
Finish planting spring bulbs early in month, including daffodils, also
pre-chilled tulips and hyacinths.
Select and order gladiolus corms for February/March planting. Plant at
two-week intervals to prolong flowering period.
Sow seed in flats or containers to get a jump on plant growth before hot
weather arrives. Petunias, begonias and impatiens should be sown in early
January. Warm temperature plants, such as tomatoes, peppers, marigolds and
periwinkles, (seeds) should be sown in late January or early February.
Apply a light application of fertilizer to established pansy and viola
plantings. Use one-half pound of ammonium sulfate per 100 square feet of bed
area. Repeat the application every 4 to 6 weeks, depending on rainfall.
Dried blood meal can also be used as fertilizer for pansies/violas.
Fruit & Nut:
Plant fruit, pecan trees, grapes and berries. Choose only adapted varieties
for this area. Check Texas references or contact your county Texas AgriLife
Extension Service
Office.
Prune new peach and plum trees by half. Encourage 3 or 4 “scaffold” branches
to arise from trunk between 24 and 28 inches from ground. Then prune each
year to remove strongly vertical branches.
Vegetables:
Plant asparagus roots as early as they are offered. Buy 2 year-old roots and
plant into well-prepared garden soil where plants can grow for many years.
Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer late in the month to encourage new asparagus
shoots (in an established bed).
Trees & Shrubs:
Remove mistletoe while it is still young. Clip small twigs on which it is
growing. There is no spray that will control it without harming the host
tree.
If you want to allow more sunlight under trees, now is the time to remove
lower limbs (December – February). Oak trees should not be trimmed after
February 15th or before the first of December.
Check junipers and other narrow-leaf evergreens for bagworm pouches. The
insect eggs overwinter in the pouch, and starts the cycle again by emerging
in the spring to begin feeding on the foliage. Hand removal and burning of
the pouches are ways of reducing the potential damage in the spring.
When pruning shrubs, first prune out any dead or damaged branches, then thin
out (if needed) by removing about one-third of the canes or stems at ground
level, removing the oldest canes only; and last, shape the rest of the
plant, but do not cut everything back to the same height.
Roses:
Hold off on pruning bush roses until February (Valentine’s Day is a good
marker). Use good shears that will make clean cuts. Remove dead, dying and
weak canes. Leave 4 to 8 healthy canes and remove approximately one-half of
the top growth and height of the plant.
Climbing roses should be trained but not pruned. Weave long canes through
openings in trellises or arbors and tie them with jute twine or plastic/wire
plant ties. Securing canes now prevents damage from winter winds and
contributes toward a more refined look to the garden when roses are
blooming. Wait until after the spring flowering period to prune climbing or
once-blooming shrub roses. Prune grape plants by 80 percent or more. Train
vines along horizontal wire supports and maintain canes on permanent
trellises or wires.
Now is an excellent time to select and plant container-grown roses to fill
in those bare spots in your rose garden.
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